In Murphy, North Carolina, you can’t buy beer in a store. You can’t order beer in a restaurant. You can, however; go to the local golf course and pick up a 12 pack.
You can’t buy alcohol in restaurants, but there are a few in town that allow you to bring in your own wine. And wine? You can’t buy it in an ABC store because the ABC stores in Murphy only actually sell A & C. You can buy wine from the shop in old downtown that shares space with the Daily Grind and the tiniest and most comprehensive bookstore I’ve ever visited but be sure to plan your trip there carefully. Every other Friday there’s a collection of folks reading and listening to poetry in the lobby and you’ll find yourself lurking outside the windows waiting for a pause. If you don’t, you’ll be the naked guy streaking across the stage. Confused? We were too.
In Murphy, the locals look you in the eye. At the 2000 census, there were 1,568 of them and or random sampling indicates 99% of them smile and say “good morning”. Stop and absorb that. They greet you. In a neighborly fashion, with a genuine sentiment. They actually mean “good morning”. For all the towns we’ve traveled to around the southern United States, and the towns I’ve visited in the rest of the US and abroad, I’ve never experienced and acceptance and welcome like the folks in Murphy give. We weren’t seen as outsiders or intruders or those city folk, we were immediately adopted as one of them.
Putting the people aside for a minute, let’s talk about location and amenities, shall we? It’s an easy two hour drive from Atlanta, two hours from Asheville and two hours from Chattanooga. Downtown is made up of approximately one city block and boasts a drugstore the likes of which America has nearly forgotten, complete with a soda shop inside that we’re told serves the best burgers in the area.
There’s a breakfast spot called the Moose’s something-or-another (I don’t recall, I stopped at “moose” since it reminded me of home and that’s about all I needed) where you can load yourself up on a buffet of biscuits (made with lard, hello!), grits, oatmeal, eggs, bacon, corned beef hash and a bottomless cup of coffee while eavesdropping on the old timers in the back of the room who are dipping themselves in steaming pots of nostalgia. People come in and out, greeting neighbors with a wave of recognition and leaving cash on the table. I loved this spot.
Half the reason we trekked up to Murphy was to fulfill a decade old item on my wish list: to visit the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. Joyce Kilmer is a 17,394 acre tract of the Natahala National Forest of western North Carolina and the Cherokee National Forest of eastern Tennessee. It’s a short and painfully scenic forty five minute drive from Murphy to the north-east via US 74 (and through Topton, aka Meth-Ville) to reach the Natahala National Forest - which boasts 531,303 acres of land for your nature lovin’ pleasure. Kilmer was killed an action during World War I, on July 30, 1918 at the age of 31 and was perhaps best known for his poem “Trees”. Pictures here, should you be inclined to partake in my view of the forest and the trees.
The forest is also home to the road known as The Tail of the Dragon, for you motorcycle and sports car enthusiasts, and for those of you who aren’t? Pack your Dramamine.
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On a ridge near downtown and overlooking the Hiawassee river and just behind the new fire station, you can spot a charcoal spire poking over a hilltop. This is the tip of a pyramid built as a memorial to a loving aunt and uncle by their niece Elizabeth Wyche “Lillie” Hitchcock Coit. Local legend will tell you that Lillie grew up in Murphy and had an amazing knack for showing up at the scene of a fire with cookies and refreshments for local fire fighters. After some time, the IQ was raised to a level where one of the townsfolk was able to detect a pattern to this and a quiet conversation was had with Lillie about her hot hot habit. A young Lillie abruptly moved to San Francisco where her hijinx continued in a modified form leading to her becoming an honorary volunteer in the fire department and a monument was eventually built in her honor: Coit Tower.
Murphy and the surrounding area offer a great deal more than a history rich with legend - the Hiwassee, Appalachia and Cherokee Lakes, parts of the Appalachian and Benton MacKaye Trails, and - are you ready for it? The National Appalachian Jeep Jamboree. Dood.
So, you can’t buy beer…easily. You can’t have beer with dinner in a local restaurant. What you can have is a long walk in the woods or float on a river or ride through the forest with all the silence, fresh air, and friendly faces you can handle. If that’s not enough, try the funnel cakes that the flea market on a Saturday afternoon. That’ll soothe whatever ails you.